Slide your headset spacers and handlebar stem back onto the steerer tube and put the top cap and bolt back on top of the stem and begin to preload the headset by tightening the preload bolt.
Headset top cap torque.
Once the stem is tightened in place is is purely cosmetic and covers the top of the steerer.
It is non load bearing.
Make sure it still turns freely.
I would say 5 n m is safe.
You want the minimum torque to reduce play in the headset.
The edc steerer plug is required for edc tool storage and is compatible with most aluminum tapered steerer.
Top caps are compatible with all 1 1 8 aluminum steerer tubes.
Do not overtighten it.
As others have said the top cap is pre load only.
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The edc cap kit includes the worlds lightest headset top cap 4 2g and an edc steerer plug with drain hole which keeps crud out of your steerer.
A torque wrench is a good idea at this point.
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On to your problem it could be the clicking you hear is because the pre load top cap is a tiny bit loose.
Too tight can damage bearings.
On a custom bicycle headset cap for any type of bike.
Anything you can imagine.
Align your handlebar stem and apply the appropriate torque rating to the steerer tube clamp bolts.
Then tighten stem again.
Depending on how loose your headset bearing feels you can make adjustments to the bearing tension with the 5mm allen bolt located in the top cap.
Same is true for the end cap on a shimano hollowtech ii crankset.